The five 10K resistors R1-R5 have color codes Brown Black Orange

The three 1K resistors R6-R7 and R14 have color codes Brown Black Red

The 470R resistor R9 has color codes Yellow Violet Brown

The 4K7 resistor R8 has color code Yellow Violet Red

The red LED D1 and green LED D2 has 2 uneven legs. The longer leg is the +, the shorter one the -. The positive side (+) of this LED is clearly marked on the PCB.

The BAT-42 diodes D3-D4 come on a strip.

There is 1 transistor, a 2N3904. Bent the base leg of this transistor towards the curved part of the transistor body and straighten the other 2 legs.  Now you have the transistor triangle which can be inserted in the board.

The ATmega328p is pre-programmed with both the boot loader and the Clock firmware.

Capacitor C1-C2, C5, C18, C3-C4 are ceramic, non-polarized capacitors. The Electrolytic Capacitors C6-C8 and C17 are polarized.

The front of the Backup battery (lettering) is the + side. The battery legs will need to be squeezed a little to fit in the holes; be careful doing this so the legs don't break. Please bend the unused tabs on the battery away to reduce any risk of shorting the battery. The positive (+) side of the battery is clearly marked on the PCB.

Do not insert any components in the vias, which are small holes to transfer a signal from one side of the board to the other side.

Install the Power (2-pin) polarized header with the flat back towards the center of the board in the location marked "VCCPOWER".

On-Off switch S3 is optional in the "Standard" kit. Please use a short wire to permanently connect the lower 2 legs of this switch (the holes with clearly visible traces)

The terminals CH1 and CH2 are easiest installed when done as the first item on the PCB; solder them on the bottom side.

All ICs are oriented (pin 1) towards the left of the PCB.

Install a 2 pin header in the location marked "1PPS" and then put one of the supplied shunts on the 2 pins.

Install a 3 pin header in the location marked "VCCSELECT" and then put one of the supplied shunts on the 2 pins closest to the "VCCPOWER" polarized header.

The easiest method to power the AVR Oscilloscope clock is to use an external wall wart, voltage range 7-15V, with a 5.5 mm (external diameter) center positive DC connector. When using such a wall wart, there is no need for the power cable described below.

The AVR Oscilloscope Clock kit can also be powered  by an external 5V regulated power source.  The clock side connector needed to make a cable to connect to the Power (2-pin) polarized header is included with the kit. These parts consist of 2 crimp connectors and 1 terminal housings. The Power (2-pin) cable can also be used to power another device from the AVR Oscilloscope Clock (when using an external wall wart). To make the AVR clock side of this Power cable, you need to attach two crimp pins to the two power cable wires. A special crimping tool is preferred but you can also use pliers and use a tiny bit of solder to make sure the connection is secure. Once the crimp pins are attached, you just slide them into the 2 position terminal housing. Make sure you line up the + and - sides properly: the +(positive) of the header is on the side of the Led D1, the –(negative) is next to the header marked "VCCSELECT". Your connector must match this.
Note that the crimp pins have a little tab on them. This tab fits perfectly in a small opening in the terminal housing; you'll hear it click if it is in the proper position. You can remove a crimp pin from the terminal housing by pushing in this tab using a very small screwdriver through the small opening, while pulling the wire.
Here are some links on how to make these kind of connectors:

        http://www.societyofrobots.com/electronics_wire_connector.shtml
        http://www.hansenhobbies.com/products/connectors/Connectors.pdf

Install components in order of increased height. For example do the probe connectors (CH1, CH2) first, followed by the IC sockets,  the resistors and the diodes. This way, you can lay the board face down while soldering the bottom side.

Do not install the 3 ICs initially. When complete, before applying power, test the voltage at the junction of diodes D3 and D4. It should read about 3V from the backup battery. Next apply power and test the IC power supply points (IC1 pin 7, IC2 pin 15, IC3 pin 8). If that all tests OK, install the ICs (watch the orientation)

After the first power up, the RTC may report a low battery status. This usually goes away after a couple of power cycles. It can also be cleared by writing the correct time to the clock (long push on the button switch enters Time Set mode) followed by a clock reset. See the FAQ for more details.